Kite Festival Sumpongo - Day of the Dead

We have moved into our still unfinished house and have spent much of time trying to ride herd on one of the subcontractors. But with November first arriving, I wanted to take our annual trip to the kite festival in Sumpongo. Diane rallied from her cold and we hopped on the BMW to the town of Sumpongo about a half hour from our new house.

Sumpongo is a  nothing town and I would be happy to call it sleepy. Except on November 1st, the Day of the Dead. Sumpongo is one of the two nearby towns that celebrates this day by building giant kites. There are smaller kites too, but the real attraction are the big ones. People used to tie messages on the kites and fly them to the heavens to send the messages to their dead relatives. This year, for whatever reason, the crowds were the biggest I have ever seen. I chatted with some of the locals and some of the vendors and they agreed.

We go up early to miss the crowds, Not this year, the crowds were already there. People were parking a mile or more away, fortunately riding a motorcycle has some distinct advantages. I even managed to park on the street next an 1150GS.  We locked up our jackets and helmets and began the climb up to the cemetery and then on to the soccer pitch where the giant kites are. 

Cemetary with a view

Guatemalans decorating the gravesites

Family gathering at the grave. Usually for a shared lunch

One of the Mausoleums 

Up to the soccer field to see the big kites

An odd shaped kite

Look at the detail

Honoring some particular family member

 Really liked this one

 Closeup of the Center

Another Closeup. It looks like a painting, but it is all glued paper

Part of the crowd.

Really liked this one too

Doubleheader

Cuaresma in Santa Ana

Holy Month in Santa Ana

Though Christmas is often thought of as the ultimate Christian holiday, here in Antigua many would disagree. With the 40 days of Lent as the run up to Easter, Antigua  is the site of one of the top "festivals" in the world. All through the month processions happen and alfombras (literally translated rugs) are constructed. Even better, one of the best displays happen in the little town of Santa Ana where we live.

Santa Ana is a small working class village in the municipality of Antigua. It is one street up and one street down with about 4 cross streets, all leading to the plaza where the church maintains a presence over the square. During the Lenten celebration (Cuaresma) there are three big events. One is the children's procession, then something happens on the Friday before Santa Ana's big procession. We are still not sure what or why, but the entire square fills with food stands and vendors and the village fills with people. Sort of a carnival without rides or games. But the real treat is the following Sunday when Santa Ana puts on a procession.  We had heard that it was a big deal and we have seen processions before, but watching it all unfold was an interesting experience.

At 9 o'clock at night the two roads into and out of Santa Ana are closed and people begin to come into the streets. They are about to begin to build their alfombras. The first thing is set up a frame so that you can use any of the three popular starting materials. Depending on your financial abilities that you have received you use either sand, sawdust or boughs of pine.

Here sand is covered with a layer of sawdust

You then fill your frame with the proper materials and begin the process of smoothing your canvas,

This process can take a few hours. We went out at nine and back out again at eleven that night and some people were still working the base. The whole family can be involved.

child labor is encouraged!

After the base you then begin to overlay with your design. Most people opt for the stencil method. You can see a lot of examples below

Stencil over pine needles

Wooden frame stencil

Over sand

Flowers and colored sawdust

Typical alfombra - notice the whole family

Smoothing the sawdust while stenciling the other side

almost done

Some finished Alfombras:

A more modern geometric design.

This one was a hundred feet long!

Can you guess what is in the center of the flowers?

Some of the artwork is impressive!

All flowers

This alfombra was dedicated to vegetables

Not all alfombras are rectangles

Props are sometimes used, but are removed prior to the procession

 

At eleven o'clock the procession begins. Some people are busy finishing their alfombras just prior to the procession reaching them

The centurions lead the way, carefully avoiding the alfombra

Next comes the men' float.  Right through the alfombras

Close up of the float

The women have a float too...

For some it is a solemn occasion, for others it is a time to text.

After the procession

After the procession

Let the cleanup begin

Within two hours of the completion of the procession the streets were virtually clean. There was a dusting of saw dust or sand inbetween the cobblestones, but that was it. So in less then twenty four hours people complete a work of art, have it passed over by a religious procession destroying the art, and shortly thereafter it all disappears. Now they just have to get ready for next year. 

Same afternoon... All done!

`